BY RIYA BHAGTANI
Featured Image credits
Image credits
Listen, I am from India and I had to go to sleep at 12 a.m. but Saint Laurent’s show ruined my sleep schedule. So, now that I have had sleepless nights, let’s analyze if it was worth the sacrifice.
Yves Saint Laurent launched their Spring/Summer’22 this Tuesday in Paris. Once the sunset, the glamour began? Umm, we’ll see. With Anthony’s vision to make models catwalk in tailored pants, perfect curated fits which made it feel like it was made exactly for them, what are our thoughts about this new collection?
It is obviously very French of Saint Laurent to have a Paris runway under Eiffel Tower.
The collection had 62 pieces. Most of them being solid colours, no-prints, tailored pants, denim tailored blazers, loads of leather, gloves for some reason, and chunky jewellery.
Now, it is a spring/summer collection. Why are don’t we have a lot of florals? Okay, maybe that is me stereotyping summers, but why do we have so many greys and blacks? Even if that is a different take of Anthony on summers, why are we wearing gloves? And why are we wearing blue and red gloves? I honestly don’t mind the denim blazer, in fact, I love it individually. I think it is bold summer. But the gloves are making me second-guess my love for it.
Gloves in summers are like wearing sunglasses at night. Oh wait, that was also done in this show.
We also saw fabrics like velvet in the show? Bodysuits made of velvet with heavy cuts? Sure the cuts will give ventilation for the model to not pass out, but velvet is still not a summer fabric you give to people. And yes, this collection is said to be continued from the last winter’s and maybe that is the aesthetic behind it. But Anthony, launch it in winter only?
Apart from that, I love the cuts on the dress, the way the fabric has been folded and I like YSL written on each section of the cut. It looks classy, I just hope the model went home well.
We could also see a lot of leather. Leather goods are so YSL, I am aware. But making a pretty dress out of it for your summer collection is not so. This collection feels like “winter clothes to wear this summer” and it’s getting funnier.
Apart from the solids, endless blacks and greys, we could see a few floral designs though (finally).
Now, do I love it? Absolutely no. The rose print is too big and the belt wasn’t needed because it is a bodysuit and already in a good fit. If it is a statement, it is a bad statement (pun intended). I love the cross neck which gives out the halter look. I love the earrings and I don’t mind shoes. Would I pay the amount it is for? No. Would I like to talk about other 61 looks? Yes.
Moving ahead to the bag under the pant style. Boy, I love it. It is a modern take on men putting wallets behind their pants, maybe? At least it is for me. I love it. I think it is so bold, so chic and so powerful. Especially with blazers and pants. It’s the ERA, y’all.
We could also see some really interesting cut-outs. This design is so interesting with its sleeves on one side and it being bare on the other. I think this is a perfect dinner dress for when you are in Paris and going on a date with the man you love. (Wear this, he will know you’re in love with him).
This look is so Audrey Hepburn from Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Maybe it’s just me, I don’t know. But boy, I love it. I love the red on the earrings, I love the model’s hairstyle and I love the sunglasses. It is so well-styled. The loose gown can go wrong in so many ways and look shabby and all over the place. But this is proper, in place, and oh so perfect.
We also see colours in the collection (surprised enough haha?). I love the bright orange since its summers. It is tailored, properly calculated, and in place. It doesn’t flow as summer dresses do but it doesn’t look like something you would wear in a meeting with the board of directors. Maybe to a semi-professional meeting? Grab a Margarita on the way?
Okay, wait. What is this? This suit looks like it was made for 55-year-old man who would wear it once on a shaadi. Why do we have black patches on the shoulders and why are we wearing violet gloves? I am confused about this look and it looks like it doesn’t belong in the collection. Fit in a little maybe?
We have saved the best for the last. I love everything about this look. It is quirky but sophisticated quirky. You won’t think why is it what it is, you would think damn I wish I could carry it that well. The top with silverwork and the bare chest is so empowering. It looks like it is breaking the norms of how women should dress. It looks like it is creating a revolution. Even if it is not, it is a good start.
So, yes I do have mixed feelings about this collection. I don’t understand a few concepts behind the looks and I love a few of them. It is definitely not your typical summer collection.
It is also important to note that these are my opinions on the collection. I don’t mind the collection not being colourful, flowing and fun but I do think it is not accessible for summers. If a brand markets the collection for summer, it should be for summer. I would wear this in winter and I am sure a lot of others would too.
It is also possible that the country you are living in may have summers that still require fabrics like velvets and leathers to protect you from little cold also but then again it is subjective and YSL is a global brand.
What are your thoughts on the collection?
